Spring Projects Around the House
By Owen Whetzel
At least once a year - spring is a good time - you should carefully inspect the outside of your house from the soil to the peak of the roof, looking for needed repairs. There are a number of good books available at a library or bookstore, on how to do a home inspection, but you don't need to be a professional, to sense when something isn't quite right. Follow through on your hunches. Little problems can become big problems. Relatively small costs can escalate into large ones.
Here are some of the things you will want to check:
But, first...
Before starting an inspection, complete the important safety tasks, that should be accomplished each month:
- Test and inspect smoke, heat and gas detectors. If you are uncertain how to test each of these potentially lifesaving devices, check the instruction booklet or manual, that came with each. If there's any question about their functioning normally (assuming, if they are battery operated, they have fully-charged batteries and if electrically powered, the power is on), replace each questionable unit.
- Check to be certain nothing flammable is near a source of flame, such as a water heater pilot light, gas range, furnace, etc.
- Check fire extinguishers. Replace or have them serviced, if needed.
- Inspect electrical cords for damage. Repair or replace them, if needed.
- Check to make certain that all chemicals, paints, lubricants - anything potentially poisonous - are stored out of the reach of children. Be sure to check the cleaning products, that you may have stored beneath a kitchen or bathroom sink. They are at toddler level and many are potentially fatal.
- Practice a family fire-escape plan and review earthquake preparedness. If you don't have a plan or know what you need to do to be prepared for an earthquake, you can get information from your local fire department.
- Look for unsecured heavy bookcases or other furniture, that could topple during an earthquake.
Using L-brackets or heavy-duty straps, which are made to be earthquake resistant, is a good choice for most installations. OSH sells the Quakehold! by Trevco line of earthquake safety fasteners. You will find them in the Industrial department. If you would like to read more about the products, go to the Quakehold! Web site and choose "Safety Fasteners."
To paraphrase ABC radio commentator Paul Harvey, "and now the rest of the" list:
- Foundation. Look for cracks. Some hairline cracks are to be expected. Wide cracks or cracks that extend all the way through the foundation are not. Foundation repair is a job for a professional, who has experience diagnosing the cause and making needed repairs.
- Gaps, cracks and openings, where, depending on the season, cool air enters or escapes. Check all weatherstripping and caulking around doors and windows for wear, damage, or loss of flexibility. Replace material, that is no longer blocking air infiltration. (If you need to remove weatherstripping adhered with an adhesive tape and are having a difficult time, warm the weatherstripping using a hair dryer. The warm air will often soften the adhesive and make removal easier.)
You may want to read "Weatherstripping & Caulking Tips for Windows & Doors," which is on the OSH Web site. An additional resource is "Weatherstripping & Caulking" in the book "136 Best Ways to Save on Your Home Energy," by the editors of Sunset Books. This book should be available from a library or bookstore.
- Exterior Paint. Check exterior walls and trim for peeling paint or other paint damage. If there are any damaged areas on one wall, it's always a good idea to paint the entire wall. Spot painting, particularly if a few years have passed, since the last coat of paint was applied, produces -- you guessed it -- more spots. Painting an entire wall usually blends in well with adjoining paint. If more than one wall needs painting, it is probably time for a complete paint job. (A good time to paint exterior surfaces is late spring of early fall, avoiding rain or higher temperatures.)
If the entire house needs painting, here are some general tips for exterior painting:
1. Plan the job carefully.
Select colors that will enhance the appearance of your house and are compatible with your neighborhood. Laying out a work schedule is critical, to making certain each step of the project is completed, before tackling the next. You will find an "Exterior Paint Calculator" on the OSH Web site.
2. Preparation. Preparation. Preparation.
Cleaning, sanding, filling, etc.
Thorough prep (cleaning, including mildew removal; scraping; sanding; filling voids; etc.) is the most important step and directly affects the finished job and how long paint will last.
3. Always use the highest quality paint and supplies, you can afford. When you bring a new container of paint home, store it indoors at room temperature, not outdoors or in an unheated garage, shed, etc.
- Window screens. If rescreening is needed, you will find well-written instructions in "Rescreening Step-By-Step Instructions," on the Web site of the OSH screen supplier, Phifer Wire Products, Inc. You can also talk with a Phifer representative by phoning the Phifer Hotline, (800) 874-3007 or e-mail them, info@phifer.com.
- Garage door. If you have a tilt-up or sectional garage door, check the bottom seal, to see if it's damaged or worn. The seal not only helps to reduce air penetration, but also helps to keep a wooden door from coming into direct contact with damp or wet concrete or asphalt. Replacement seals can be found in the hardware department at OSH.
- Roof. When the roof is dry, carefully climb on the roof (provided the roofing materials can be walked on). Look for any apparent damage to shakes, shingles or tiles. Inspect anything that protrudes through the roof for rust, open seams or other damage. Also, check the operation of attic fans and turbine vents.
WARNING! The roof surface may be slippery, or quite hot in warm weather!
You will find simple roof repairs covered in a number of home repair and maintenance books, such as "Ultimate Guide to Home Repair & Improvement," by the editors of Creative Homeowner (Pub. by Creative Homeowner), which is available in the book section at OSH stores.
Want to check the roof, but don't like walking up there? Use binoculars and if you spot what you think could be a problem, call in an established, licensed, qualified roofing contractor, who routinely works on the type of roofing material you have. Roofing pros are listed in the Yellow Pages under "Roofing Contractors."
- Gutters and downspouts. Clean and inspect rain gutters for rusted or damaged areas. Use a plastic scoop to remove leaves and other debris, that have accumulated over the winter. Leaves and other debris, that seem to be adhered to the gutter, should be removed using an old cooking rubber spatula (never use anything metallic or that will scratch the gutter material).
Finish by scrubbing the inside of the gutter, using a non-metallic bristle scrub brush and water.
If you need to remove a clog from a downspout, thread a water jet nozzle, such as a Gilmour 06BJ (brass) or 06WJ (polymer) jet nozzle, onto a garden hose, then run the hose and nozzle into the downspout from the roof gutter end, not the elbow at the ground. Next, turn the water on full force (making certain you are protected from overspray). If this doesn't solve the problem, carefully run a plumber's auger into the downspout. Once the obstruction seems to be cleared by the auger, use the water jet nozzle and garden hose, to make certain all debris is removed.
OSH sells plastic scoops for cleaning gutters. You will find them in the Industrial section of the Hardware department; non-metallic scrub brushes are in the Housewares department; and water jet nozzles are sold in the Garden department. Plumber's augers can be found in the Plumbing department.
Compost any leaves you remove from gutters.
If you are experiencing an annoying sound from gutter downspout elbows (where water and debris flow out at ground level), the noise can be dampened by either: 1. Buying Gutter Silencers for metal downspout elbows, which are magnetic sponge sheets sold at OSH, or 2. Cutting a small piece of indoor-outdoor carpeting to lay flat in the bottom of a downspout elbow. The carpet is held in place with an all-wood (no metal) clothespin. These clothespins, often referred to as "old fashioned clothespins," are often available from craft and independent hardware stores.
Whichever device you use to reduce noise, be certain it doesn't interfere with the flow of water or debris.
- Tree and landscape branches. Trim branches around the roofline, to keep squirrels and other pesky animals off the roof.
- Circuit breakers and GFCI's. In dry weather, standing on dry ground check the operation of all electrical circuit breakers, by turning each off and on. Do the same with ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets. Replace those, that don't work properly.
- Wooden decks, gazebos, fences and wood and plastic patio furniture. When the weather is heading toward summer, clean them using cleaners formulated for outdoor wood. Refinish, if needed. Most decks (horizontal surfaces) need recoating every 2 to 3 years; fences (vertical surfaces) every 3 to 5 years. Plastic furniture can be cleaned using a cleaner, that is formulated for vinyl and plastics.
- Gates, fence posts, landscape borders, etc. Leaning fence posts can often be reinforced, by inserting structural metal brackets around a post bottom and into the footing. OSH stores sell SpeedMender Fence Post Repair Kits for 3-1/2 inch by 3-1/2 inch and 4-inch by 4-inch posts in the Industrial section of the Hardware department.
- Doormats. Once mats outside an entry door are worn, they are no longer doing an optimal job of removing dust, dirt and other abrasives from shoes. Replace them.
- Children's outdoor play equipment. Carefully examine children's outdoor play equipment, particularly pieces that are constructed of wood. Look for rot or damage at soil level, that could weaken the equipment. Also, look for splinters and loose and/or exposed hardware. Splinters can usually be cut and sanded away. Loose hardware needs tightening and exposed hardware should be covered.
- Plumbing. Repair leaking faucets. Check each toilet base and the area between the tank and bowl for leaks. Repair any missing caulk, particularly around tub and shower areas. Check the angle stops (wall faucets) that control water to toilets and sinks, and make certain that they turn off and on smoothly and easily. Pull out pop-up drains and clean them. They're often the cause of slow draining water.
- Furnace. Shut the furnace off and inspect the filter. If washable, clean it. If disposable, and it's dirty or has been in use longer than 3- to 4- months, replace it. Vacuum the air intake grill and all accessible areas of the furnace. If the blower motor is not permanently lubricated (sealed), oil it according to the manufacturer's instructions. If a gas unit, spray a soap and water solution on incoming gas lines, to check for leaks. Turn the furnace on or relight it, according to instructions provided with the unit. Carefully vacuum the wall thermostat.
Attic insulation. What you should purchase and how much depends upon a number of factors and the climate in which your house is located.
Read "Insulation," prepared by the U.S. Department of Energy, Oak Ridge National Laboratory. This Web site will also allow you to calculate the amount of insulation needed based on your zip code.
Swimming pool, pond or fountain. Needed maintenance may be as simple as removing leaves or more involved, such as killing algae. If swimming pool maintenance seems like too big a task for you, have the work done by a pool service professional. Swimming pool specialists are usually listed in the Yellow Pages under "Swimming Pool Service & Repair."
- Walkways and driveways. Clean concrete, masonry or stone walkways and driveways by pressure washing, steam cleaning or using a cleaner formulated for the particular material. Spot cleaning often doesn't work, as you may end up with a very clean spot where a stain was removed and the remainder of the surface will be dirty. Cleaned spots can be more evident, than the stain that was removed. The solution is to clean the entire surface.
Cracks allow water to penetrate beneath the surface and eventually cause damage. This may be as simple a repair project, as pouring a crack repair product into an open crack.
Use cement-based, concrete-colored polyurethane-, latex- and silicone- based products, to fill cracks and open joints in concrete. You will find cement-based and tubes of polyurethane and silicone concrete repair products in the paint department at OSH; latex is in the Industrial department.
- Handrails and steps. Handrails should be secure and steps should be solid and safe.
- Security. As you walk around looking for needed repairs, also do a security check. For example, look for landscaping, that could obstruct a burglar from being seen, outdoor security lighting that doesn't work, and locks that need repair or replacement. Your local police department may be able to assist you with the check. Trim landscaping and make needed repairs.
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If you don't want to do an exterior home inspection yourself, hire a professional home inspector. A local real estate agent may be able to recommend a pro. In fact, a qualified home inspector should inspect all homes, inside and out, every ten years.
Once you or a home inspector has finished the exterior check-up, you can prepare a personalized "to do'' list of needed repairs. If you can't or don't want to do a project, there are professionals in most areas. It's sometimes difficult to know when to call in a pro and when to tackle a home repair, maintenance or remodeling project yourself. Here's my basic rule-of-thumb advice:
-- If you own a chisel, but think it may be a screwdriver, or don't understand what is meant by "turn counterclockwise," always call a pro.
-- If you are guessing at what needs to done and how to do it, and don't have time to get advice, strongly consider calling a pro.
-- If you think you know what the problem is, or think you understand the project, attempt the job, if you have the time and are willing to do some planning and research before you begin. Good advice on do-it-yourself projects often comes from an Associate in an OSH store, "Ask OSH" on the OSH Web site, books, and home improvement magazines.
Some of the projects for the inexperienced to avoid are structural, such as working on the foundation or bearing walls; major plumbing installation and repairs; heating, air conditioning and ventilating installation and many repairs; new roofing; extensive electrical work; and correcting serious masonry fireplace problems.
If the project could potentially disrupt your household, such as pulling out the one and only toilet, don't start at a time when professional help is not available or is more costly. Before you begin, check with a contractor who specializes in the type of work you are attempting, to make certain that someone will be available to complete the job, if you aren't successful. Just be sure that the pro is licensed, reputable, qualified, and has current liability and, if needed, workers compensation insurance.
If you are a California resident and decide to have work costing more than $499 (labor and materials) done by a contractor, before entering into a contract you should request a free copy of "What You Should Know Before You Hire A Contractor," from the State of California, Department of Consumer Affairs, Contractors State License Board (CSLB). For the booklet to be mailed to you, phone (800) 321-2752 (24-hours a day) and record your request, along with your full name and address. You may also read the booklet or download it from the Board's Web site: http://www.cslb.ca.gov. Select "Services & Publications," then "Guides & Pamphlets," and then "What You Should Know Before You Hire A Contractor." It is available in English, Spanish, Chinese, Korean, Tagalog, and Vietnamese. You can also download other Board publications.