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Why Can't I Grow Peonies?

By Bob Chapman

Immigrants from the Midwest or the Eastern states often complain about the lack of peonies in the West. Many try growing these perennials, only to give up in frustration when year after year their prized peonies produce lots of foliage but few, or no flowers. They remember the thousands upon thousands of those beautiful, sometimes fragrant flowers blooming profusely around Memorial Day. In many peoples minds they are the flowers used to decorate the graves of loved ones and they wonder why they can't grow them here.

Here are some facts about growing these delightful flowers and suggestions about purchasing and planting them.

Peonies Failure To Bloom
There are several reasons for failure to bloom, any of which could be the problem. Look at the list below to see if any of these conditions apply in your garden.

-- Alkaline soil - The lack of bloom in peonies is often attributed to alkaline soils, which can be corrected with applications of aluminum sulfate to keep the pH in the acid range (6.0 - 7.0). Use a pH meter to test the soil for pH. If the pH is too high, use 1/2 cup of aluminum sulfate around each plant to lower the pH one point. Water the aluminum sulfate in deeply after spreading it around. Apply aluminum sulfate as needed to maintain an acidic soil (pH of 6.0 to 7.0).

-- Need for winter cold - Peonies fail to bloom if the soil doesn't get cold enough. This is really the number one reason for failure to bloom in mild winter areas. Peonies need freezing conditions (30-60 nights of freezing temperatures) to complete dormancy and warm climates do not set well with them. That said, I've seen quite a few blooming over the years that defy the warmth factor. Let's hope yours will disregard the need for frozen soil.

-- Crown too deep - The crown (where the stem meets the roots) buried at the wrong depth, too deep or too shallow. The eyes should be placed 11/2 to 2 inches below the top of the soil when planting or transplanting peonies. In very mild winter areas peonies should be planted 1/2 inch deep. The reddish buds (eyes) should be pointing upwards.

-- Immature transplants - Peony roots that have been divided and transplanted usually fail to flower for at least two years. If the divisions were small the flowering could be delayed for up to 5 years.

-- Too old - Old, crowded clumps of peonies may fail to bloom after several years of blooming and need to be divided.

-- Too shady - Peonies love the open sunshine. Transplant them next winter to a sunny spot.

-- They are hungry - Undernourished peonies will fail to bloom. Fertilize with any general-purpose fertilizer containing at least 10% nitrogen in the spring when the leaves emerge and then feed them every other month until September.

Here's ten suggestions for growing and purchasing peonies from successful grower, Bill Meredith.

1) Plant bareroot peonies only in the fall.
2) If you are ordering peonies through the mail, buy those marketed for southern or warmer regions.
3) Plant the root absolutely at the right depth, allowing for the soil to sink a bit.
4) Plant peonies in the part of your yard that gets the most frost in the winter.
5) Plant in a place where you water at least moderately. You may wish to build a small well around the plant if you water overhead. If you are not the best waterer, plant in half sun/half shade.
6) Do not plant in a crowded border where the peony will have a lot of competition for light and water.
7) The older red varieties seem to be stronger than the whites and pinks.
8) Bareroot plants take 3 years before they begin to bloom.
9) Cut off flower heads immediately after blooming
10) Plan for a large plant, say 2 by 2 feet at least. When mature they don't like to be moved.

Note: Peonies are actually somewhat drought-tolerant because of their tubers when they are really established (say, 5-7 years), but I wouldn't count on it. Keep them watered.

Suggestions for general care of peonies

-- Cutting the flowers. Leave 3 or 4 leaves on the stems.

-- Leave some flowers on the clump. Pick only a third of the flowers to use as cut flowers for the home to ensure an ample bloom next year. This practice preserves leaf growth, which in turn, nourishes the plant for future flower production.

-- Remove spent flowers to prevent seed formation.

-- Divide your clumps every 6-10 years. When dividing, make sure that each division (new clump) has 3-5 eyes. See the suggestions above for the proper planting depth.

 

 

Bob Chapman is a well-known professional gardener and landscape contractor. Currently retired, Bob now spends his time contributing many free-lance garden articles and columns, and is a much sought after lecturer and horticultural consultant.

Since 1987, Bob has appeared as a regular columnist for the San Jose Mercury News. Besides the Mercury, his writings have appeared in the San Diego Tribune, Sacramento Bee, Fresno Bee and the Times Newspaper Group. He is the 1991 winner of the Quill and Trowel Award of the Garden Writers Association of America for the best newspaper gardening article in North America.

Bob majored in Ornamental Horticulture at Cal-Poly, San Luis Obispo. He also served as a member of the Professional Gardeners Association.