Buying Bare Root Trees
By Bob Chapman
Bare-root trees offer better bargains than container grown plants. For one thing, they are cheaper. You are not paying for the soil mix, the container and the labor involved in planting and caring for container stock. Buying bare-root trees affords the purchaser the opportunity to see the branch structure and the root system. Handling and planting is easier. Care after planting is practically non-existent until warm weather arrives, the tree leafs out and the soil dries up. Bare-root trees grow better than container-grown stock as the tree roots are not pruned to conform to a five gallon container and they do not need to adjust to two different kinds of soil in a relatively short time.
Where trees are grown. Most wholesale nurseries are located in the Sacramento or San Joaquin Valleys. When fully dormant the trees are dug by machines that cut and lift them from the ground in one operation. Hauled to sorting yards, they are tagged, graded, bundled, and stored until shipped. Care is given to protect the roots. When shipped to the retail nursery or garden center tree roots are wrapped in moist sawdust or shavings and the tops are tied to prevent damage to the branches.
Shipping. When received by the nursery or garden center the trees are immediately sorted, tagged and put into bins of moist sawdust, sand or shavings, or a combination of these, to keep roots from drying out. Some nurserymen prune damaged roots prior to placing them in bins. This aids the healing process and prevents disease.
Selecting your tree. After selecting the variety of tree desired the homeowner must know the size of trees wanted. Growers use the term "caliper" to designate sizes. The tree is measured across the trunk above the bud or graft. Sizes range from three eighths of an inch to one inch and increase in eighth inch increments. Most nurseries stock trees in the medium range. They believe that the 3/8" to 1/2" sizes are too small to give a good start and the one-inch size too large to survive transplanting successfully. They stock mostly the 5/8" to 3/4" caliper trees.
Upon determining the variety and size of tree desired the homeowner is confronted with an array of bins resembling a forest of bare branches. The salesperson should be asked to select a tree with a good branch framework. Then ask to see the roots. They should be large, healthy, and well developed. Roots should show evidence of being pruned. More emphasis is placed on root structure than branch framework, as most branches will be pruned after the final selection is made.
Pruning the tree at the nursery. Have the top pruned. If a fruit tree is selected tell the nurseryman where it is to be planted. When deer are a problem or if planted in a yard the tree should be pruned high. This allows the framework to develop high enough to walk under and out of reach of deer. Orchardists usually cut them quite low. Either way most of the branches will be trimmed. Ornamental trees are pruned so that they grow tall and straight. A strong trunk is left, crossing branches removed, and one third of the remaining branches are cut off. This initial pruning provides a balance between root system and superstructure giving the tree a better start.
The tree is now almost ready to be taken home. Some nurseries dip the roots in a Vitamin B-1 solution. The roots are packed in moist sawdust or shavings, tied and wrapped in paper or plastic to prevent drying out. The nursery has completed its work and yours is about to begin.
Planting the new tree. Nurserymen recommend that the tree be planted immediately. Customers cannot leave it in the garage for two weeks and expect it to survive. Plant it as soon as you get home. Water it once and not again until the tree shows signs of struggling in late Spring. Then start a regular watering program. This forces the tree to send out roots and assists the establishment of the tree in the yard.
Plant the tree in a hole wide enough and deep enough so that the roots do not touch bottom or sides. Shovel a mound of soil in the middle of the hole, matching the soil level of the yard against the old soil level of the tree (usually seen as a slight discoloration just above the topmost roots). Add or remove soil if needed. This is important as the bud union or graft must not be buried or the tree will die. Fill the hole about two-thirds full and add water. Some settling may occur. If so, gently lift the tree to its proper level and fill the hole. Water it again but heed the advice of the experts and refrain watering until the soil dries out in spring. Bare-root trees transpire little moisture and overwatering can lead to root rot.
Staking often required. Stake the tree if planted in a windy area or where kids playing may be a problem. Use two stakes, one on the windward side, the other on the leeward side. Use two tree ties near the top, one for each stake, and nail a board across the bottom of the stakes for support.
Final results. The correct selection, nursery care, and proper planting of trees gives homeowners a lifetime of beauty, shade, flowers and fruit. Few investments reap greater rewards.
